Page 1 DO YOU REMEMBER? Early Days in Luling, Texas by A Pioneer Citizen (Anne C. Huff Bridges) with corrections and some additions by her daughter Mary Louise Bridges Witt Page 2 (blank) Page 3 Dedicated to The Citizens of Luling, Texas Especially those of Pioneer Descent Page 4 (blank) Page 5 FOREWORD This treatise was published in serial form in "The Luling Signal" in 1945. The author modestly concealed her identity by using as a by-line the following: By a Pioneer Citizen. It is a true account of the times and customs prevailing during her own childhood and early youth. Born May 26, 1862, during the conflict between the North and South, Anne Corder Huff grew up on the plantation of her father, Leonard Corder Huff. A photostat at Lamar Tech in Beaumont shows that L. C. Huff, born in Tennessee, was 47 years old, had 4,000 acres of land, other assets to the value of $65,000. His second wife (nee Martha Louise Meriwether) was then 23 years old and is erroneously listed as born in Georgia. She was actually born in Tennessee. The children listed were her step-children. In 1880, Anne Huff was married to James Pierce Bridges, founder, owner, editor of "The Luling Signal," a widower with one child. As far as she could without neglect of home duties, Mrs. Bridges took part in the civic, religious, and social life of the town. With her keen intellect, she was a help to him in his career. In addition to his work as a news- paperman, he became a writer of plays and poetry, a politician, known throughout the state for his oratory, and a civic leader in his home town where he served as mayor and school trustee, also as a major in the home guard, appointed by Gov. John Ireland. After the death of her husband on February 12, 1893, Mrs. Bridges took over as editor of the paper. She soon found it was better to lease it and turn to a sideline Mr. Bridges had worked up. She became the third lady fire insurance agent in Texas. For thirty years she was engaged in that business, and through the kindness shown her by relatives and friends, including her husband's fellow lodge members, she became the leading fire insurance agent in the town. More than one business man in Luling has said, "Mrs. Bridges is the smartest woman in town." During the time she was writing this column, she remarked, "I have never put myself forward, but always hid behind some man." That was her wish, from the days of her beloved uncle, John Meriwether, through her married life, and afterward to her retirement, through her capable sons. She raised four sons and a daughter. Anne C. Bridges, as she signed her policies, died in Luling February 26, 1960. Before retiring from her insurance agency she helped several other ladies enter that occupation. She was a charter member of every worth while organization of the town, including the Cemetery Society, Order of Page 6 Eastern Star, Rebekah Lodge, Pythian Sisters, United Daughters of the Confederacy, Woman's Club (which merged with P.T.A. ), Ladies' Study Club-no, by then she was willing to let her daughter take over. Three of her sons became newspaper editors and owners. The oldest, J. P. Bridges, went to Cuero where he had a big part in putting over the famous Cuero Turkey Trot. He later became County Clerk and still later Justice of the Peace. He died in November, 1963. H. Frank Bridges owned newspapers at Waelder, Flatonia, and at Nixon where his grandson, G. Frank Bridges, is now editor. L. E. Bridges had no inclination toward newspaper work. He became a cattle man and farmer, using some of the land that had belonged to his grandfather. He died February 9, 1950, always a Lulingite. L. H. Bridges, the youngest son, is present proprietor of "The Luling Signal," with his daughter, Mrs. Kathleen Edwards, as editor. In charge oŁ the printing department is her husband, Robert Edwards, and the linotype operator is J. P. Bridges III, though Hal still does some of that himself. The daughter, Mrs. Louise Bridges Witt became a teacher in public schools, later turning to private work with pre-school children. Her certificate states "good for life," so she is still teaching, though she limits her class, since she is in her 80th year. She also compiles family history and genealogy, and is the author of this sketch. February 14, 1965 Page 7 AFTERWORD Among the papers left by Mrs. Bridges was found these poignant couplets, which is an explanation in itself why she did not write more of her married life and her widowhood. Happiness Handsome, gallant husband Loving little wife; Healthy, romping children The ideal married life. Misery Little wife a widow Husband in the ground; Children all in tatters Scarce food to go around Mrs. Bridges was never a person to indulge in self-pity, and she had little patience with people who did. In spite of her busy life she was always available to nurse the sick, lay out the dead (before the day of morticians), care for children and comfort the troubled and sorrowing. At the time of her death notices appeared in many big city dailies, including Dallas, San Antonio, Austin, Houston. As the widow of a past president and charter member of Texas Press Association, and mother and grandmother of prominent present day members of that organization, she was well known and highly regarded in Press circles. Her youngest son, Hal, was elected President of South Texas Press Association in 1949 with his brother, Frank, as his assistant. Frank has fame on his own account as the father of the largest newspaper family in Texas, including his only son, his two daughters, two grandsons, and others. He carries a gold headed cane awarded to his father as President of Texas Press Association at the close of his year's tenure in 1889-the 8th president. His son-in-law, C. K. Mick, retired as president in 1966. All are in the editorial field, most of them proprietors of newspapers in Central Texas. Mrs. Bridges was Charter Member of Texas Woman's Press Association. July 1966. Page 8 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS To my two nieces, Anne Bridges Broussard and Kathleen Bridges Edwards, who listened to the reading of my foreword and afterword expressed their approval of the subject matter; my typist friends, Dorothy Lane Huffman, who began the main job of putting my mother's column into presentable form; to Linda Stewart Blackwell, great-great-granddaughter of my father's uncle, Samuel Bridges, who finished the job when Dorothy could give it no more time; and last, but by no means least, to Emily Burgess, who typed so accurately my own effort, my gratitude is hereby expressed. Page 9 ACROSTIC FOR BIRTHDAY May 26, 1928 M Mother, may you always be O Oh, so happy! and so free, T That your sorrows will be few. H How I want these things for you! E Ever in this heart of mine, R Rest assured a place is thine. A At last, mother mine, your birthday's here; N Now let me assure you (you are so dear) N Never on earth nor in Heaven above I In truth, at no time will I cease to love E Ever forget you, though far I may rove. -Mary Louis Bridges Witt OUR TOWN'S NAME Luling was a good-sized town The day she got her name; "Five hundred people," records say. Since then she's grown in fame. The "Sooners" came before the rails Were laid beyond Plum Creek; Gregg, Redus, Keith, McGaffey Their names we need not seek. Now in the town a good Chinese Did laundry work and more. His name, Lu Ling, by chance Was known quite well before The chosen name was told, But records of the railroad show This name did honor the good wife Of railway's chief promoter. So The time has come to state this fact. Many, many years ago A friend in Louisiana wrote, "Our Luling got its name you know Page 10 "From the same judge Luling, "Known to be the holder of some stock" So evidently Col. Pierce was wed To that man's daughter. A shock? To us who've heard the tales Of Luling's early days From our forbears, it's known that youths To tease Lu Ling did raise The idea he was meant to be The honored one; for too They pestered him about his looks And once cut off his queue. "I can't go back to China now Because my hair's been cut," Wailed Ling with sadness in his soul. And then his mouth he shut. Then Ling (or John, he said it meant) Stayed on for many years; He tended to his work so well He could forget all fears. Now Weimar, Waelder, Converse, Each new town along the route Was named for some stock holder As told beyond all doubt. And Louisiana had no Ling Nor Mississippi, further east, Yet each one has a Luling, So that's some proof, at least. --Mary Louise Bridges Witt Page 11 DO YOU REMEMBER? PIONEER DAYS AND WAYS When there were but few fences, made of split rails, an industry made famous by Abraham Lincoln? These were laid in a zigzag manner called a worm, four or five rails high, then "staked and ridered," with few gates but many stepping blocks, or stiles. Old "Bob Wire" had not arrived. Private premises, fields, orchards, gins, and lots for domestic animals were fenced; while unfenced land was designated as range, and was used by everybody's cattle and hogs. I have in my possession an old hand written tax receipt (or can get it) in which 4000 acres of improved and unimproved land and various other items yielded to the state and county less revenue than the heirs of that man pay on three or four hundred acres. Yes, Luling is a part of that 4,000 acres. Of course at this time cattle were identified by marks in ears, brands on hip or side; horses were branded, very small on shoulder; hogs were marked, one or both ears, by slits, crops, overbits, or underbits, or combinations of these mutilations in one or both ears. And do you remember round-up time when marking, branding, and selection of heifers for milch cows, and converting male calves into beef stock or oxen; for any not branded were mavericks, while any pig not marked became a "wild hog" and anybody's property. It is noteworthy that immigrants from Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, and other Southern States brought with them cattle with crumpled horns, spots, line backs, while the native longhorns were always solid red, black, dun, or brindle. Remember there was not a bridge on the San Marcos River or Plum Creek from source to mouth? Where wagon roads went through the river it was a ford, while on the creek it was a crossing. That the post office was at Prairie Lea to the west and Atlanta to the east---until Johnston's store, with "Hardeman Lodge" (AF & AM) upstairs, was established at the confluence of Salt Branch and Plum Creek, and Billy Smith brought the mail from Lockhart by "pony express." Johnston's store, flanked by the dwelling and "black Abe Brothers" blacksmith shop and mule (factory) barn, a cotton warehouse, and topped by Hardeman Lodge (Masonic) room, was a lively place on Saturday on or before the first quarter of the moon. Mr. W. R. Johnston (Bill) carried a line of staple and fancy dry goods, hardware and groceries, including barrels (with spigots) of molasses, vinegar, and whiskey; which was sold by the quart, gallon, five gallons, or more, but a drink was free. It was a great joke to shift the vinegar and whiskey barrels, and hang Page 12 the tin cup on the wrong barrel. No Mason ever told his fellow members of the exchange. Always at this meeting, was slim, six-foot Uncle Joe Johnston, with his eight hound dogs; Marcus, Aurelius, Americus, Vespuccius, Julius, Caesar, Nip and Tuck. Sometimes the names of Nip and Tuck were changed to Ulysses and Grant, with the saying "Grant got mixed up with a bull dog" (meaning Gen. Joseph Johnston). The two Johnstons and their brother, Rev. Robert Johnston were cousins of General Joseph Johnston of the Confederate Army and came to Texas after Sherman's march through Georgia, the close of the war. They and Hardeman Lodge moved to Luling at about the same time. Living on this side of Plum Creek on what is now the Alex farm, was a fine family from Mississippi, Dr. Davis, a physician of note, whose wife's sister had married a "person from the North" named Jordan. This Mr. Jordan built a log cabin just the other side of the crossing, called it a doggery, and sold strong drink. He allowed white and black boys to pitch horseshoes, play poker, seven-up, and other card games together on the premises. Dr. and Mrs. Davis were the parents of Mrs. T. E. Cocreham (of whom more anon). PLANTATION LIFE Do you remember the charcoal burners that had a thriving business in this community when the farms were being cleared of mesquite and black jack? They were half burned into charcoal and delivered by the wagon load to blacksmith shops for use in furnaces. It was also used in grates for heating, in braziers for cooking purposes and for heating sad irons or a tailor's "goose" on ironing day, also the G.H. & S.A. Ry. to supplement wood chunks in the engines in the early '70's. Do you remember when every plantation had a big house, a detached kitchen, a back yard usually surrounded by the "cook's house," smoke house, chicken house, and two store rooms, forming a rectangle in which the ground was swept clean and level? These outhouses were usually built of logs or stone, all with dirt floors except the cook's house and kitchen which were floored, like the big house, with split logs, the round side down and the other side "adzed" as smooth as sawn timber. The kitchen always had an especially built chimney and fireplace fitted with hooks from which to hang iron and earthenware pots for boiling meats and vegetables. Large and small Dutch ovens always had legs, with loops at the end if oval, at each side if round, and on top of the lid (to be handled with large pothooks) to facilitate the use of just the right amount of coals. The skillets for frying and griddles for hot cakes rested over the coals on trivets. Nearly all of this equipment was made in the plantation black- smith shop. Page 13 My! what good food was sent into the dining room, about twenty feet away in the big house! Do you remember the ash hoppers, V-shaped structures that stood be- tween the smoke house and the "Backy," where ashes from all fires in the house and kitchen were stored throughout the year, kept damp so the lye could run down for soap making at hog killing time? It was a favorite for the children when playing hide-and-seek. And "hog killing," when the hogs, which had been penned from the range and fattened, were butchered-usually eight to twelve at a time? The back yard became a scene of activity. Water was hauled up from the branch or creek in barrels on "slides" (made of a forked tree to which a mule was hitched by trace chains hooked to a clevis in the big end of the log) to be boiled in washpots and poured over the hogs, after killing, in barrels tipped up at one end so the hair and bristles could be scraped off, after which the animal was hung up on the side of the smoke- house by "stretchers" or sharpened sticks thrust through the leaders in the hind legs, for disemboweling. The carcass was expertly split from throat- to tail on the under side (the contents being placed in tubs), washed out and flattened against the wall to cool. This was usually done the first heavy freeze before Christmas. At this point the women began cleaning and cooking hearts, kidneys, melts, livers, chitlings and tripe, and fixing casings for sausage, also cooking great pots full of stew to be eaten with shortening bread, lye hominy, and roast sweet potatoes. This work lasted a week or more, including cutting up the meat, salting, packing, smoking, and curing, followed by the making of lye hominy and soft soap. Do you remember the candle stick maker, the maker of candle molds and snuffers? These artisans also made brackets to hold the candle sticks and sconces to hold torches. There was also the spinning wheel for making candle wicks and thread for other uses, with accompanying "cards" for softening and fining up cotton or wool fibers for spinning. Candle wicks were enough strands of cotton threads loosely twisted to form a cord about as thick as a lead pencil. There was a lot of preliminary work incident to candle making, so we will assume that tallow, beeswax and vegetable wax were in storage. This description is for tallow candles only. The wick string is cut twice as long as the candle will turn out, is doubled over a stick, given a few twists to keep it from separating, six or eight wicks to the stick are laid over the bottom of the mold and the wicks pulled through, the small other end Page 14 carefully adjusting to the exact middle of the mold. The mold is filled with melted, not hot, tallow and set aside to cool. Each double mold held ten or twelve candles and each pouring yielded 50 to 100 candles. Of course you know candlesticks held the candles for burning, the snuffers were for removing charred bits of wick and the brackets held the candle sticks at any time. Ku KLUX--FIRST SCHOOL The Ku Klux (the third K was not used at this time) was organized at the Big Gate of Col. Huff's field. Because Mr. Huff was in California and could not be implicated, and the Big Gate was a quarter of a mile from any of the buildings no one ever saw anyone arrive. But the silent, well-covered horses and riders left that rendezvous by twos, threes or fours to "patrol" the country, and were likely to appear at any gathering of ex-slaves, carpet baggers, or other trouble makers. Their efforts were directed at black and white pistol toting men who preferred stealing to work. This organization was also called "Patrollers" (Paterollers by the negroes) and the negroes originated a song that could hardly be called a spiritual: "Run nigger, run, patter roller get yo' Run nigger, run, it's almost day." In long after years Mr. Len Barnett acknowledged leadership. Judge Mackey of the Federal Bureau held court near Prairie Lea on the banks of the river. He was a fine gentleman, and.did his utmost to put an end to this and all other lawless practices of the Reconstruction Period. Every grown man wore a pistol when he left home and was not considered well dressed without one. The settlers had become reconciled to having neighbors and had quit quoting Daniel Boone's saying: "It is time to move-can see the neighbors' smoke and hear their roosters crowing." They decided to build a school and get a teacher. "The children are getting big and should learn something." A snug log house about twenty by twenty feet was built on the Barnett land on Salt Branch. It had one door, no window, a puncheon floor, and the benches were also made of puncheons (split logs, flat side up), with auger holes bored at each end to hold the legs-no backs. A Mr. Bean, said to be related to judge Roy Bean, west of the Pecos, was engaged as teacher. A hide bottom hickory chair and a table distinguished his place in the room from the scholars. First week in March school opened with 25 or 30 pupils. They were the Binnz and Dick Barnett, Huff, Scoggins and Hale children from on the Branch, the Biggs, Gant, West, Gooden, McAllister and Mrs. Susan Smith's children from along Plum Page 15 Creek. Mr. Smith had been killed in the war. The Elam and McFarlane children and Jim McCutchan came from Seals Creek. All pupils used McGuffey's Bluebacked spellers to learn spelling, reading and writing- older children had arithmetics, readers and grammars. All used slates and slate pencils. The school was not a success. Mr. Bean lacked ability, vigor, and maybe health. He dropped into the habit of long siestas after the noon meal, which all brought in covered tin buckets. He ate indoors, while the pupils disported themselves on the sandy, pebbly acre or two nearby, wading the branch, climbing small hickory, haw, mesquite, or blackjack trees, especially those overgrown with mustang or wintergrape vines; gathered wild flowers and cacti, sorted and piled up large and small round stones (they called them God biscuits) suitable for throwing in slings or by hand, soon becoming reluctant to obey or failing to respond when he appeared in the door clapping his hands, calling "Books, Books." After a few weeks some of the small boys began to cushion (?) his chair with grass-burrs, dewberry vines, chaparral twigs, and other un- pleasant things to sit on. Some of the large girls borrowed horses from older boys to go dewberrying or visiting, not attending the afternoon session. His efforts to control reached a climax when he threatened to whip a twelve-year-old girl whose sixteen-year-old brother said, "You'll have me to whip first," and while the teacher turned to get his hickory switch from the wall, stepped outside, calling back: "Come out and fight like a man. I'll give you a smell of God biscuit." Exasperated, Mr. Bean returned to his place and sat down on a mesquite thorn sticking up through the seat of his chair. It was noon. Travis McFarlane, Henry Elam and Bud McAllister asked Mrs. Len Barnett what to do about it all. They were told to get help and duck the teacher in the horsepond. They replied: "We don't need any help." Mr. Bean had not taken a nap that day and never did come back. School opened again some days later with Miss Laura Johnson of Johnson City in charge. Most of the young ladies were sent to the Academy at Prairie Lea. The young men had business somewhere else. Miss Johnson was Mrs. Len Barnett's niece and a sister of Congressman Lyndon Johnson's father (or grandfather, Sam Johnson, Sr.). GINS AND MILLS Do you remember the numerous cotton gins, grist mills, sawmills,. on the San Marcos River? There seemed to be one with its inevitable dam above every ford: Fentress, Mooney's, Dunlap's, Greenwood's, Ussery's, Meriwether's, Andrews, are those I remember best. Fentress Ford was a few miles west of Prairie Lea on the road to San Marcos, via Staples Store. Mooney's gin, grist mill, and sawmill was owned Page 16 and operated by the father of Billy and Floyd Mooney of Luling, Mrs. Mae Ganbrell of Lockhart and Mrs. T. J. Smith of Prairie Lea; from it were turned out hundreds of bales of cotton, hundreds of bushels of meal and grits, many thousand feet of milled lumber-cypress, cottonwood, hackberry, and walnut (used for window and door facing, stairways and furniture). Many chairs, tables, wardrobes, secretaries, cradles, now treasured as antiques, were made from lumber turned out by this mill. In Prairie Lea, McKean's gin, operated by mule power (later by steam) was built of rawhide lumber from Mooney's. Dr. Jessie Pryor told me that her grandfather Mooney was a brother of that Tom Mooney who built the covered bridge across the Guadalupe at Gonzales, a toll bridge where two elderly ladies in a buggy asked the price for crossing, and being told "two bits for a man and a horse," replied "We are two old maids and a mare," and went on their journey free. Dunlap's and Greenwood's were gins only and not very near a ford. Do you remember when young Tom Greenwood was drowned while crossing the dam in high water? He was the father of Ex-Mayor C. T. Greenwood, brother of Emmet and Paul Greenwood, one time city attorney; son of Rev. T. C. Greenwood, Baptist preacher, owner of the gin. And do you remember that this sudden flood of the treacherous river caused the J. Josey family, new comers from New York, to take refuge in the second story of Ussery's gin? Neighbors salvaging bales of cotton, floating down from up river, rescued them by making rafts of cotton bales and towing them to high ground and tying them to mesquite trees. The raft was separated and two bales were used as a hospital room for Mrs. Josey, Mr. Ussery "accoucher," and their youngest son was born and named Noah. The Ketchums extended the customary Texas hospitality until Mr. Josey had bought several hundred acres of "raw land" and had built Josey's store, with living quarters. You guessed it-Luling! Ussery's gin in after years became the property of F. Homan-a factory manufacturing horse collars, harness and saddles. Meriwether's gin and mill was not erected until a number of years later and a great sensation resulted when a quantity of fossil bones and teeth were excavated in digging the mill race. A ferry boat to cross the mill pond was very popular with youngsters who had to wait while the meal was being ground. Often a number of boys and some of the men would load up and cross to the other side for the novelty of it. Mr. J. W. Meriwether and his brother, James, operated at a loss for several years, when, for financial reasons, they surrendered it to Walker Brothers, J. K. and J. P., who later sold it to F. Zedler. It is still Zedler property. Andrews' mill stands out in my memory as the place where Mrs. Blanche Page 17 Miles' parents, Mr. and Mrs. Andrews, and their sister, Miss Fannie Andrews, lived. The two ladies taught school across the river until Miss Andrews was married to Capt. Bob Nixon and her relatives moved to San Marcos. The mill was taken over by the Words. Their sister, a beautiful young widow, Mrs. Spraggins, with a seven-year old daughter Katie (later Mrs. W. A. Evins) and a three-year-old son, Bobby, taught the first school in Atlanta (Near the Y on Highway 3). Do you remember those other gins and baling presses operated by "mule power" and later, of course, the steam gins? In one of the latter type gins, owned by Smith and Malone, Luling's cotton (cloth) mill was operated, having been liquidated and bought a few months later by the stockholders of the one at Gonzales. There were, are, other gins down the river from Andrews, among them being Zedler's at Ottine, and one at Oak Forest. You may remember more about them than I do. BATTLE OF PLUM CREEK Do you remember the Battle of Plum Creek? Or have you been told about that famous engagement between the Comanche Indians, the Caranquays, and settlers, appropriated by Lockhart? I was told that the Cherokees and Apaches went on the warpath, attacking settlers, Lipans and Caranquays near the gulf coast below Victoria. They were pursued along the Guadalupe and San Marcos to the mouth of Plum Creek, and in crossing the quagmires and quicksands in what is now Palmetto Park, many Indians bogged down and did not reach the other side. Their bodies were used by others for "stepping stones" and the running fight continued up the creek until the last Indian was either killed or escaped. Gonzales had several other historical events, and Ottine was getting the park and Warm Springs. Luling was never within a mile of the creek until the extension of Bruner Oil Field, so Lockhart is entitled to it. We, in this part of the county are also proud of the marker, the golf course, park, and recreation center; and what not marking the battlefield. RECONSTRUCTION Do you remember when the Carpetbaggers and Scalawags induced many negroes to migrate to the new state, Kansas, with the promise of 40 acres and a mule? Approximately one hundred families from these parts, some of them white, were sold the "gold brick;" This movement was called the exodus. Land owners and their families tried to do the work formerly done by field hands and house servants; young men from Missouri and other states and some older negroes rented land third and fourth or hired out. Page 18 Prices were high-meat was sold, sugar was from 10c to 25c a pound, flour was $20.00 a barrel (biscuits for Sunday breakfast only), children were said "to put coals of fire on their backs to see if they would stick out their legs like turtles." Cattle were being driven "up the trail," so milk and butter were scarce as were nearly all other food items and money. Confederate bills were valueless (re-read Father Ryan's poem), gold was coined in $50, $20, $10, $5 and $1 pieces, silver in $1, 50c, 25c, 12 1/2 c, 10c, 5c, 3c or half dollar, quarter dollar, bit, dime, half dime and picayune pieces. United States currency was not in circulation. The Mexican centavo or clacko was the medium of exchange. Of course, there was barter or trade of one thing for another. At harvest time there were a few sweet potatoes to store in A shaped bins, made of poles banked with dirt with cornstalks or weeds to hold the dirt in place. Most of the corn was nubbins. Cotton sold at $1.00 a pound in Galveston and New Orleans and cost an extra dollar a hundred for picking to the producer. Remember the cotton pickings, promoted to get the cotton out of the field and to the gin? The big barbecue dinners and the cakewalk at night, with prizes for the best picker. Some of them had 600 and 700 weighed in the sack in the field. Soon the qualification had to be changed to most and cleanest (that is free from leaves, bolls, sticks and stones) White children were permitted to pick cotton (not at a cotton picking) and work in gins, milk, make butter, cook, garden in addition to carding, spinning and sewing, hauling or bringing water, boys and girls, white and colored, together, taught by the lady in the big house or the cook in the kitchen. About this time cook stoves, conestoga wagons and oil lamps were im- ported and kerosene oil from Pennsylvania. At this time I got some extra teaching, or information, not intended and not included in the school curriculum. I got a habit of lingering un- noticed in the doorstep or edge of the gallery when company came. Ladies' conversation was not very interesting, while that of men, doctors, preachers, lawyers and judges, held me spellbound. I learned that the cause of the war was not sympathy and pity for "the poor mistreated slaves," but rather envy and jealousy. The Southern people had servants without pay(?) at all times, did nothing but sleep, dress, play the piano and embroider. Southern gentlemen left the manage- Page 19 ment of their estates to overseers and got richer while they drank, gambled and went to horse races, cock fights, etc. I learned that Johnny Reb was an Insulting word used by the Dam Yankees to rub in their victory and keep the breach between the states from healing. That Lincoln was a westerner, a smart man, but not the equal of Davis. That Lee outgeneraled Grant on every encounter and only surrendered to save his friends from Grant's numberless mercenaries, Hessians hired as substitutes for Northern men in the army. CONVEYANCES Do you remember the stage coach lines and wagon trains? The stage like all other conveyances, four in hand team, from Indianola to San Antonio, also carried the mail. Passenger fare from one terminus to the other was $50.00, to intermediate points in proportion. There were sta- tions for changing horses, with frequent detours to outlying plantations. Col. L. C. Huff and Capt. Bob Nixon operated wagon trains for trans- porting their own and their neighbors' corn, cotton, and other produce to the coast, usually Brownsville, Corpus Christi, Rockport, Indianola (Port Lavaca after the great storm) for transshipment' by water to Galveston, New Orleans, New York or for export to Europe. The ox wagons, three or four yoke to the wagon, were fitted with a frame of uprights or stand- ards to hold the bales, while those of corn, shucked, shelled and sacked, were customarily of the covered wagon variety, with mule teams, four or six span. There were no springs and no brakes-in lieu of brakes trace chains attached to the side of frame or bed with both ends hanging were used down hill; by passing the end with staple, around the tire be- tween two spokes and slipping the staple through the ring in the other end of the chain, locking the wheel and causing it to drag and preventing the wagon from running down on the team. Getting ready to start was an interesting time, loading up, selecting teams and drivers and the addition of a neighbor's outfit. The cotton wagons started several days ahead as oxen could only make ten miles a day. The driver, bullwhip in hand, must walk alongside to make his team respond to "gee and ike." The whip, not to strike with, was popped with a loud crack to emphasize the commands. The near ox of the lead yoke had a rope line around his horns to help in guiding; the off ox and middle yokes followed the leader, and the wheel yoke did the hardest pulling. The mule teams could make fifteen to eighteen miles a day and the driver either rode his pony alongside or one of the wheel horses, had to dismount to lock the wheels, unless he had a helper, while the owner, the boss or the trader, maybe all three, rode in a good buggy or carriage with driver, a fine pair of trotting horses, and starting last, arrived first. Page 20 On the return trip the wagons were loaded with merchandise for the general stores in the interior. Wagon train song: I spoke to my leaders and the leaders sprung, Up jumped a nigger to the wagon tongue. Pop my whip and the wagon roll, The horses pull through that mud hole. If you remember this, you also remember that these cotton wagons for the return trip were loaded with sugar in hogsheads (wooden tanks), bar- rels of syrup, vinegar, hardware that could stand the roughness, and rum. The covered wagons were loaded with more perishable goods-flour in barrels and half barrels, fine wines, cognac and other brandies in wicker covered glass demijohns, crated and packed in straw. Also in the crates were Charter Oak cook stoves and utensils from Indiana, knocked down parts of buggies and carriages, Conestoga wagons. These top buggies and the carriages were equipped with both shafts and tongues. Ladies and elderly folks drove a gentle, faithful horse in the shafts. The tongue with its accessories, double tree and single trees, was used if a span or four-in-hand were driven. These turn-outs, when new, with good or fine teams, filled the hearts of their owners with pride (if not egotism and exaltation). The imported wagons were an improvement on those in use, having a body or bed that could be built up high or used low, with strong iron hasps at the upper edge of the lower planks to hold the braces or stand- ards on the lower edge of the top planks, which in other hasps at the upper edge held bows when a wagon sheet was needed. When assembled it was a gorgeous thing. The tongue and cross-tree was a bright yellow, the wheels, hub, spokes, and "fellys" (felloes) were a bright red. The body with its seat swinging across was a vivid green, with bright yellow letters on each side, "Conestoga Wagon Co., Milwaukee, Wis." It also had a hand-brake on the left side. It could be seen a mile away. Do you remember that all the young folks rode horseback? Ladies used side-saddles and wore riding habits (or at least long skirts) almost to the ground. Riding double or riding bareback was often done. Even small boys and girls were "at home" on horseback. OLD ATLANTA Do you remember the San Jacinto and May Day picnics and the two weeks camp meetings at Sulphur Springs? Of course the first two events were one-day affairs. Silver tongued orators, on April 21st, told us of the powers of Gen. Sam Houston and Texas soldiers; the wonders of the Lone Star State and "Tall Tales" then as now, while on the 1st of Page 21 May the Queen of love and beauty was crowned, dancing around the may- pole and other sports afforded an excuse to get together for a happy time. But oh! the big camp meeting, usually around the Fourth of July when the negro help had recovered from their Emancipation celebration and were willing to help "the white folks jess lak befo' de wah" when several families pitched their tents under the shade of the elm and cottonwood, oak and pecan trees which made an ideal grove west of the Lamkin home; and kept open house for others who came "for the day." There was a great revival, sunrise and sunset prayer meetings (away from the tan- talizing odors of the barbecue pit) and the fine sermons by circuit riding preachers such as Fighting Andy Potter, Orceneth Fisher, DeVilbiss, Horton, Abbott, Onderdonk from Goliad, the horticulturist, who also took orders for fall delivery of fruit trees, ornamental shrubs and hauptberry vines. The local preachers were Revs. Jas. Powell from Mule Creek and T. C. Greenwood from up the river. One or the other of these good preachers held services at Lone Oak so that the community had public worship once a month. Do you remember that Atlanta was a small collection of dwellings- 12 or 15. The Lamkin and Nations Store (John Lamkin and John Nations had married Norwood sisters), Dr. Williams' Drug Store and office, Mc Gowan's blacksmith shop and the public well were on the north side of the road (the only street) with Dr. Williams' home, the school house and teacher's home and McGowan's boarding house well back. Fuqua, Nations, Lamkin and Womack homes, all in spacious grounds, with servant houses, were to the south. Dr. Williams' field skirted along Wolf Branch to where D. H. Reeves built his home near the Y. The first term of pay school was taught by Mrs. Spraggins. Next Mr. John Lewis taught a five-months free school with a complete change of text books from Webster's, Davies' Maury's. We changed to Independent series by American authors de- signed to teach patriotism and that all the greatest heroes did not originate in Dixie. A four-horse wagon load of books arrived at the store and parents to buy and enroll their children for the first free school, in examining the readers, found a lesson unfit to be seen by their little ones. It was about a "hen that went into a garden and found a large green tobacco worm. She looked at it and when the worm hunched its back the hen TURNED TAIL and left the garden." This lesson was always omitted. As Mr. Lewis could teach anything, school opened with a full house. There were Rocellus and Enoch McKinney and George Hysaw from near Belmont, Alex and Richard Brelsford and two sisters, John and Dick Norwood, Charlie Richard and Albert Mills, Julius Lockridge, Albert and Dora Powell and Word boys and girls from down the river, Tom